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| Aotearoa New Zealand. A 3000km unsupported bikepacking adventure. |
In our case, on the first day a self-selecting team was born, comprised of Geof Blance, the Tour Divide 4th place finisher from 2014, Matt Dewes a graphic designer with an eye for a great shot, and Steve Scott, the hard man roadie with 5 Tours of Southland under his belt. Geof and I were the only ones with previous bikepacking experience. Matt had spent time as an under 23 XC racer in Switzerland so we knew he had a big motor. To date I still haven't seen his conversation threshold breached. He was young and fit and would dance up the hill and take snaps as we rode past, sharing them on social media when cellular coverage allowed.We have Matt to thank for most of these images. If you have ever watched the Tour of Southland you know what kind of an animal Steve must be. It must be the hardest race in the southern hemisphere with hills and the kind of weather that makes you put an extra duvet on your bed.
Strava Cape Reinga to Kohukohu,
Strava to Cape Reinga Waimamaku,
Day 1 was always going to hurt. New Zealand is a very hilly country. I knew from experience that average speeds for the fast guys in dirt Brevets in this country are around 14kmh. We had to average over 20kmh to make the last 8pm Ferry to Rawene. Unfortunately mother nature had other plans in the form of a head wind on the beautiful "90 mile beach". Bikepackers learning to ride in echelons was a comical thing, and I was struggling with cramp for some reason.
I ended up stopping to clean my chain at the end of the 88km beach segment before carrying on, in hindsight a bad move. We had a whole lot of climbing to do after the beach, before reaching the Ferry and we killed ourselves to get there. It would have been nicer to save that extra 10 minutes of energy. We time trialled our brains out to arrive at 8.02 pm. Luckily the ferry hadn't quite pulled out. Phew. It was like an 8 hour stage race. Not bikepacking as we know it. The beach was really something and one day I'd love to go back and enjoy it with less pressure. There was a funky little whole-food shop there at Rawene and we spent plenty of time stocking up on pies and stuff for the next day. Most of the other riders hit the road straight away, but a few decided to stay at Rawene, including Darren Burns, who had already broken his saddle, not sure how, maybe a violent "buttock clench" after seeing people rub wheels and go down right in front of him on 90 mile beach ! There were a few moments out there for sure. Someone tried to lecture Steve on how to lap out in an echelon which was a bit of a laugh considering his "roadie" background.
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| 90 Mile beach into a head-wind. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
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| We just made the first ferry at 8.02 pm. Photo Matt Dewes. |
Day 2. Waimamaku to Hunua. 138 + 116 = 253kms not including the boat trip.
By the time we got to the "ferry" 7 hours later we were cooked. We were also 12 minutes late. But the boat was still there. The next one was at 6pm that day, so we had to catch this first one. Imagine riding into the red for 7 hours, then clambering up a loosely mounted modified aluminum ladder attached to a tiny boat rocking around on a high tide with a 22 kg bike on your shoulder. It was funny and grim at the same time. As usual, somehow Matt managed to photograph it for posterity. I guess there were about 20 of us who made this first cut.
Sad story of the day went to Kevin Moginie. He must be incredibley strong, as he had the aerodynamics of a Mack truck as he motored along on his full suspension Santa Cruz. He caught us earlier in the day, then I think we recaught him at Dargaville. I saw him taking a turn on the front at some stage and then he just disappeared. I guess we assumed he had a mechanical. Apparently he wasn't that far behind, and he missed the boat! Not to be deterred I think he may have caught up and passed us again by Mangakino on day 3.
Now the pressure was off, or so we thought. No more ferries to catch, for a while anyway. Event organiser Jonathan Kennett had decided that if we wanted to, we could utilise the 3 hour boat trip as part of our 6 hour continuous downtime block. We took Geofs advice as a seasoned campaigner and decided not to use the boat time as part of our 6 hour rest. A few of them did, Ollie, Seb, Anja, Matt, Cliff. They rolled down the road to the closest cafe and took the extra 3 hours napping there.
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| Boarding the Ferry, what an experience. Photo Matt Dewes. |
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| Were winning! (But its not a race). Photo by blue-dot junkie ; ) |
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| Somewhere after the sun rose, heading to Kopu. |
We rolled through the very tame Hauraki Rail Trail, then onto Matamata. This was a massive section for the aero bars and the going was fast. Steve was mashing on the front so hard that we had to tell him to ramp it back a bit.
Maybe it was "milking time" or something, but I was surprised at how few cows I saw! It was quite a while before we saw some closer to the Paeroa end of the trail.
We eventually joined up with the extensive Waikato Trail network where we were happy to meet Stephen "Stealth" Butterworth who had been following our progress.
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| Hauraki Rail Trail |
The next piece of trail was really good, unfortunately it was very dark, and technical enough that the slow speeds we were doing were not enough for 3 out of 4 of us to generate good light via our dynamo lights, so it was on with the spare helmet lights. At one point it seemed like we had ridden the same piece of trail more than once, and every now and then there would be a granny gear climb to take back all the elevation we had just lost. I thought about Cliff Clermont and his 1x11 drive train and wondered if he was still enjoying it. I couldn't believe how much time I spent in my lowest front sprocket and was very happy to have a triple, as were Geof and Steve.
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| Geof, Stephen, Jeff, Steve. |
Strava
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| Steve rides one of the massive swing bridges on the Pureora Timber Trail. Photo Matt Dewes |
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| Skills will only get you so far ; ) |
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| Matt in Pureora Timber Trail. |
Day 5. Owhango to Wanganui 190km. Including boat trip.
Strava
We hit the road with a cheery goodbye from Paul who had graciously gotten up to supervise our departure. Our initial goal was getting to the Bridge to Nowhere, and joy, another boat to meet. The good oil was that you got yourself to the Blue Duck Cafe and booked a Jet-boat from there, meeting them 4 hours later at the trail end. The familiar theme of racing the boat had returned..... The initial trail was narrow and a bit slippery, considering it was the height of summer. I managed to twist my chain dealing with chain-suck so was forced to shorten my chain, very quickly. It was a shame that we were once again suffering from "boat-anxiety" as the scenery was quite beautiful and a bit more time to take snaps would have been great.
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| This was the height of summer and the trail was still slippery. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
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| Another swing bridge. Photo Matt Dewes. |
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| About to catch a jet boat. Photo Matt Dewes. |
As we got off the boat we were hit with blinding heat and the urge to find as much food and drink as we could. A small cafe in a local Lodge was just what we needed.
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| THE Bridge to Nowhere. Photo Matt Dewes. |
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| There were the odd compulsory dismounts. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
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| Even the gravel had gravel on it. It was the day of gravel. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
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| There was morning gravel and evening gravel. It was also our longest day. Photo by Matt Dewes |
There was a ton more gravel grinding to do before we eventually grovelled into Masterton, the bogan capital of New Zealand. Matt had booked us a very nice room but before we could get there we had to put up with 4 drive by attacks by the local bogans who would throw milkshakes or slushies at us as we rode. This was the only kind of encounter we had come across like this and it took the gloss off what was our biggest day at 310kms.
Strava
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| Rimutaka Incline. A very short walk. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
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| It was a magical night as we left the Ferry and rode the Queen Charlotte Drive heading to Pelorus. Photo Matt Dewes. |
Strava
As we came into Nelson I was greeted by my cousin Paul who was whooping and hollering with excitement and we rode with him to a cafe where we got a coffee fix and a few more sweet treats before we took off. Craig and Linda were there too, with Craig about too go to a GP to have his nether regions checked out. As we were just about to leave my Aunt turned up which was also a highlight. She had been watching the dots and was really getting into it.
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| Climbing the Maungatapu early in the day. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
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| Somewhere on some Gravel... Photo by Matt Dewes. |
Strava
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| Geof picks his line in Big River.... Photo Matt Dewes. |
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| Big River. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
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| Big River. Photo Matt Dewes. |
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| Matt in the Waiuta. |
Strava
During the week an old friend from Christchurch, Ian, had been texting me, saying he wanted to catch up and ride with us for a bit. Ian was a very accomplished XC racer in his day, but I had no idea how fit he was currently. Long story short, when we left Kumara at 5am the next morning, Ian, his wife Lucy and Daughter Katie (in her pyjamas) were there. Wow, what a send-off. Ian was on his old Raceline with v-brakes and a household torch strapped to his handlebars! Geof had his MC-hammer pants on this morning and the pace was on from the start. The West Coast Wilderness Trail is a fun, fast and achievable trail for most people. Unfortunately we had to do a detour and missed one of the best parts of trail as we rode into Cowboy Paradise, a western themed Lodge overlooking the beautiful Arahura Valley. The proprietor came out to chat and mentioned that he barely got a sideways glance when the front runners came through.
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| Lake Kaniere |
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| A River somewhere between Hari Hari and Haast. |
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| A hill somewhere between Franz and Fox. Matt discovering his seat height is not optimal. Amazing what 10 days of over-use syndrome will tell you about your set-up. |
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| Terminator Steve Scott looms out of the mist. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
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| Another River somewhere around Haast. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
The leg was really annoying. I looked down at it, then across to my top-tube mounted water bottle. Had the water-bottle cage shifted? I had mounted it using the "insulation tape hack", as I had done to the down tube and front fork cages.... I suddenly had an epiphany. When I would come to a stop, but sit astride my bike I was putting pressure on the top mounted cage and bottle, and had imperceptibly been moving it sideways over the previous 10 days, and I was also unconsciously moving my left leg further to the left to avoid brushing against it! I was riding bow-legged ! This was the cause of my pain. I stopped immediately and kicked the cage off with enormous satisfaction. I still had two more bottle cages and a camelbak so it wasn't the end of the world. I felt better already, but the damage had been done. 2 weeks later its still not 100%.
We stopped at Makarora Cafe for a lunch break and I waited for Matt who had a last minute thing to sort. Geof's MC Hammer pants were on again so it was quite a while before we caught him and Cliffy again. There were more hills on the approach to Hawea and we stopped for some photos at the "neck" of the two big lakes, Wanaka and Hawea.
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| Photo-op at "The Neck" |
We grabbed a burger and beers at a cafe in Wanaka, Geof and Matt called in to Rick Woodwards bike shop, Outside Sports, Geof for a gear tweak, Matt for a new nipple... for his camelbak, it had fallen off on the outskirts of Fox.
Ignorance is bliss, at least temporarily. After the obligatory shots outside the Cardrona pub we had to do the Crown Range. I had never ridden up it before, and I did it in my middle ring as I figured that if I changed down and dropped the chain onto frame again, as I had been doing, I would probably just end up walking it. We had done close to 250kms already that day, and there was more to come. At the top we rugged up again for the descent down the other side onto the cycle trails that would take us into Arrowtown. Another pub stop there and then we went and set up camp at the local camping ground.
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| Attacking the Crown Range at night fall. Photo Matt Dewes. |
My buddy Ed Banks is a school teacher in Wellington and he chatted me one day to say that he had shown his class at school the tracking page and they were hooked, so he had it up on the big screen all day. He chatted me again while we were at Queenstown waiting for the Earnslaw and he asked me if I would mind it if the kids could ask me a couple of questions. Next minute the phone rang and we had a bit of a chat and then answered some questions for the kids. It was a very cool moment for me actually.
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| Geof wheels his bike onto the Earnslaw. Photo by Matt Dewes. |
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| Fresh legs after a coffee and pie on the Earnslaw Steamer having just crossed Lake Wakatipu. Photo Matt Dewes. |
Cliff had got to the top with me, but his 1x11 just wasn't up to it. I shifted it into the 44 and got down on the aero bars. I looked back and Cliff was slumped across the bars. I was on my own. The tailwind was amazing, smashing it across the tops at 48kmh on the aero-bars in my 44-11. This was me having fun. Gravel, tail wind, aero-bars and 250 odd kms to go, I was truly in my happy place. From this point on it was just hammer. I wasn't stopping for anything. There was miles of gravel past the Mavora lakes turn off and on towards Mossburn where my Southland cousins all come from.
I talked to a grader driver working on the road and he said he saw another cyclist 15 minutes ago, going like the clappers. That would be Matt. The new Mossburn cycle trail was a bit of fun but I just rode straight past the township planning to pick up some food later. I had plenty. I was really enjoying riding by myself at my own pace. I guessed Matt was doing the same. I stopped once at the top of a climb for a snack and once again to put on some chamois cream as I approached Winton.
I looked over my shoulder. What was that? A rider off in the distance behind me? Surely not. I renewed my efforts, but within a few minutes a rider pulled up beside me. Greg Galway ! He was on a cyclo cross bike like Matt, and this was a good day to be on one.
Actually, we were all three of us on drop bars, and had all paid attention to aerodynamics with our bike set-ups. Greg and I rode into Winton together and did a quick raid on a shop and were out of there in no time. I never ate half a fried chicken so quickly. Greg was a great navigator and he rode up the road about 100 metres ahead of me the whole way until we got to Bluff where it started to rain lightly as we got closer. There was someone standing in the middle of the road with his hand out for a high 5. It was Matt, he'd been there for an hour already and had booked the last two beds in Bluff ! He was nice enough to ring Geof and let him know, so they (Geof, Cliff, and eventually Steve!) pulled the pin at Winton, had 5 pints at the pub, and finished the ride into Bluff the next morning.
With the big tail wind, Matt had averaged 30kmh from when we got off the Earnslaw to Bluff, including Mt Nicholas. 251kms according to my computer.
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| At Bluff, with Greg. 11 days, 8 hours and 35 minutes at an average of 265kms a day. |
There are many ways to do a dirt brevet like the Tour Aotearoa. There are no wrong or right ways, just different ways. Some people did it with negligible training. Some people never stopped for a beer! Some people wanted to take all 30 days and only travel during daylight hours, and you cant blame them. It's a beautiful country. I think that was the one thing in common that we all took away from the Tour Aotearoa. We are very lucky to live in such a beautiful place, lets keep it that way.
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| Riding through the Waiuta with Geof, where my mother actually went to school, now a ghost town. Even though I struggled through here, this is my favourite photo, by Matt Dewes. |
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Thanks to Matt Dewes for his amazing photos, also the Strava files of both the North and South Islands. Thanks also to my amazing cousin Sam Kopae and her husband Wally who looked after me and the two Matts in their "bikers haven" in Invercargill. Thanks to Jonathan Kennett for organising this thing, and thanks to our spouses for letting us have the most fun you can have on two wheels in Aotearoa New Zealand.

















































































